Makeup application is an art that requires practice and knowledge of both the products to use and your skin type. If you have melasma or another form of hyperpigmentation, achieving a flawless base may pose a challenge. Although everyone has imperfections and no one needs to cover up if they don't want to, we also understand the preference for creating a more even-toned base. If you resonate with the latter, we spoke to makeup artists for advice on how to fully conceal melasma. Keep reading for a three-step guide on how to cover dark spots on your face, as well as a definition of melasma to help you identify whether that's the discoloration you're dealing with.
Meet the Experts
- Marco Antonio is a celebrity makeup artist, a beauty ambassador for Chanel UK and the fashion and beauty director of Hunger Magazine.
- Vincent Oquendo is a celebrity makeup artist for editorial and red carpet events.
- Jaleesa Jaikaran is a celebrity makeup artist and an online beauty educator based in New York City.
What Is Melasma?
Melasma is a skin condition that typically occurs on the face. It is a form of hyperpigmentation that causes patches and spots darker than your natural skin tone. Melasma is more prevalent in women, especially those with darker skin tones. It can be identified by its freckle-like spots, as well as tan, brown, grayish brown or bluish gray patches. Melasma can also develop on other areas of the body, although it is more rare.
This condition can have several causes. Melasma can occur in women during pregnancy or after starting birth control pills. Sun exposure is also known to increase melasma, with some individuals noticing a decrease during the winter. There are several ways to treat melasma. Topical solutions include the use of hydroquinone, tretinoin and corticosteroids, while some procedures such as chemical peels, microneedling, radiofrequency and laser can be prescribed.
Important to note
Melasma can often be mistaken for other skin conditions. It is recommended to consult a board-certified dermatologist for a professional diagnosis.
Step 1: Prep Your Skin
In order to achieve a flawless base, good skin preparation is key. Prioritizing your skincare routine and using products containing niacinamide, vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acids are essential for helping hyperpigmentation fade over time, celebrity makeup artist, Marco Antonio says. Applying a daily SPF is recommended for preventing and diminishing the appearance of melasma.
"Start with a gentle cleanser suitable for your skin type to remove any dirt, oil, or makeup residue, 1-2 times a week, consider incorporating a mild exfoliant to remove dead skin cells," Antonio says. "Apply a toner to balance the skin's pH levels, after that add a moisturizer suitable for your skin type. Then apply your SPF and wait for it to absorb into the skin before the next steps."
Pro Tip
Celebrity makeup artist, Vincent Oquendo, recommends keeping your skincare steps to a minimum to allow makeup to properly adhere to your skin. "Sometimes when we apply too many layers of skincare it can cause the makeup to separate and can make it look cakey," he says. "Just be more conservative with how much skincare you apply and blot off any excess with a tissue before you start your makeup application."
Step 2: Use a Color Corrector
"Color correctors can help neutralize the discoloration," Antonis says. He recommends using peach or orange tones to counteract darkness. "Use a small amount of color corrector on the brown spots," he says. "You can apply it directly onto the spots or use a clean brush or your fingertips for precise application. Blend the edges of the color corrector gently to avoid harsh lines." Try using Live Tinted Huestick All-Over Color Corrector to help neutralize hyperpigmentation and cover up dark circles.
Byrdie Tip
Celebrity makeup artist, Jaleesa Jaikaran, recommends applying a full-coverage concealer that matches the shade of your melasma to any patches on your skin. Then, dab your usual foundation or concealer over it.
Step 3: Layer Your Concealer and Foundation
Antonio says its best to layer your concealer and foundation in order to achieve your desired level of coverage without it looking too heavy, especially in the areas you would like to cover. "Use a makeup sponge or brush to apply your concealer and foundation evenly. A sponge or your fingers can provide a more natural finish," he says. "Pat the products onto the skin gently rather than rubbing, so you don't removethe color correcting. Set your makeup with a translucent setting powder to prevent it from smudging or transferring throughout the day."
For concealer, Oquendo recommends using Tula Skincare Radiant Skin Brightening Serum Concealer. As for foundation, Antonio likes to use Chanel N°1 de CHANEL Revitalizing Foundation. "It gives a luminous finish and it has a very buildable coverage," he says.
Article Sources
Byrdie takes every opportunity to use high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial guidelines to learn more about how we keep our content accurate, reliable and trustworthy.
Ogbechie-Godec, O.A., Elbuluk, N. Melasma: an Up-to-Date Comprehensive Review.Dermatol Ther (Heidelb)7, 305–318 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-017-0194-1
